A Call to Spoons

2009-05-25T16:38:00.002-04:00

It’s true that the Annex has lost some of its magic. A part of me longs for the days of draft-dodgers, whimsically decrepit garden fronts and Rochdale retirees. We pride ourselves on self-proclaimed worldly and intellectual pursuits – yet somehow, we’ve managed to deny ourselves of good food. I have witnessed the metamorphosis of Lickin’ Chicken into the vastly inferior By the Way Café; Future Bakery’s ubiquitous rise to power; the tragic demise of Formosa Gourmet. Thankfully the gingerbread men dressed in robin’s egg blue icing at Harbord Bakery haven’t changed their sense of style since Kindergarten days.

While it’s true that students are understandably tight with money (and time, for that matter), this doesn’t explain why respectables occupying the tree-lined array of brick homes off Bloor would tolerate the dubious roughage I’ve been unfortunate enough to encounter on more than one occasion at Metro (which is, I might ad, anything but).

Well, no longer is this the case. Or so it seems.

For the Annex, the days of Baskin and Robbins and other culinary miscreants are numbered. The juxtaposition of Victorian architecture and what Mark Bitman calls “Big Food” was never a pleasant one. More than once, I’ve experienced seething jealousy upon visiting Leslieville or the Ossington strip. It seemed totally unfair that they had such an impressive array of epicureans, while we got stuck with sketchy bar food – not to mention an even longer list of problematic sushi (Monster Sushi, Nouveau Riche Sushi – the list goes on).

But perhaps there’s a slice of culinary justice for the gingerbread man, after all.

Something quite spiffy is happening to my childhood stomping grounds, from Harbord to Dupont, all the way from Seaton Village – even over to Yorkville’s western edge. (Say what you will about the Texas grocery giant, Whole Foods; it mostly lives up to its name. In fact, I recently had a conversation with the guy heading the meat department who promptly informed me that I wouldn’t be able to purchase Cornish hens until he had found another farm, as his previous supplier no longer met his ethical standards.)

Over the past several years, specialists of all things sweet or savoury have appeared within walking distance of campus or Korea Town. I became slightly weepy during my first visit to Chabichou Fine Cheese and Gourmet, a stunning little jewel at the corner of Harbord and Borden. Laden with exquisite crème fresh, melted gruyere and French ham, the croque-monsieur served for lunch was so good that it verged on the obscene. A soup of parsnip purée offered the following week was more understated, the smooth cream embellished with the pale root’s subtle earthiness. My visits to Madeleines, Cherry Pie and Ice Cream have been equally blissful. In fact, Kyla Eaglesham’s Sunday brunch is one of the best to be had in Toronto, let alone the Annex. Rain-gods permitting, one can enjoy the charming backyard that feels like someone’s home – albeit with a gazebo and chef – where waffles come hot off the iron and served al dente (they induced a giddiness in this writer). Made-to-order omelettes are simple perfection, blessed with a choice of veg., ham and cheeses.

I’m also happy to report a sudden crop of Annex caffeine joints. There has been a notable lack in the area of such places. Honourable mentions include All Things Tea and Green Beanery. If only the latter would wise up and offer wireless internet. Grumble, grumble. No matter, both are a godsend for freelancers, students and general lay-abouts alike.

So why is all this deliciousness happening in the midst of a supposed economic meltdown? Is Peter Mansbridge just messing with me?

Most of us have certainly become more savvy (and stingy) with T.O.’s restaurant honour role. But this is arguably good news for the welcomed outcrop of modestly priced epicures now thriving along the Bloor West strip. With the advent of locavorism and Slow Food, Torontonians are becoming more socially and politically conscious of what they eat. And it’s no secret that snob-free gastronomy is gradually usurping haute-cuisine on the continent. I wager that all Anexxites need to be more consistent in their mantras and support the local food economy. Now’s the time to splurge on that slice of River’s Edge chevre flirting from behind the counter, or some McCutcheon's maple syrup in all its amber glory.

Next in line, please:
a decent butcher, a fishmonger, a green grocer.

Addendum

2009-04-03T21:21:00.001-04:00

So I know I promised you cheese. Having said that, it's looking like the first blogette here will actually be on a cool new place (or 2) down the street from us...

2009-03-08T01:14:00.001-05:00

So why the silly blog name?

After several years of looking for something else to do with myself besides playing the piano, I figured out that I like words. The obvious thing was to start writing. But where to start?

It recently occurred to me - with some nagging from Jenny - that I should perhaps try my hand at food writing. And living in a city where there's no excuse not to be gastronomically inspired, I plan to update this space on a fairly regular basis.

Next update: The lowdown on local cheese

Word Kitchen

A Call to Spoons

Addendum